60v Dual Battery Switch Continuous Rating 300 Amps

• #2

I use commercial 600VDC pull handle disconnect.
Of course... I get them free... pulls from upgrade jobs.

• #9

I have two them, they only handle 60amps without heating up. At 130amps continuous charging from my lv5048 they are getting ready to melt. I will have to replace with another switch, thinking the bluesea..

Yeah, I hate it when ads state exorbitant high "intermittent" specs... then go on to say a more realistic amperage but limit to 12V, and give an operating range low to high, but not into the HVDC range...
jumps out as a red herring to me fast.

• #12

Yeesh you're so full of yourself. Get over it dude

I'm not charging / discharging anywhere near that kind of current. Don't assume you're smarter than everyone around you...I wouldn't blindly connect a switch without considering the spec's

I chose the switch not b/c it was cheap but because it was the only one I could find that supported 60v. I appreciated the tip you gave and would have considered returning it for bluesea but I wasn't able to find one that supported 60v connections.

The one you suggested says:
View attachment 14157

But hey thanks to narcissist know-it-all's like you we're all a little smarter! smh...

Is the 60VDC rated switch certified by UL, CSA or similar?

Steve_S

Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada

• #13

I've used MANY switches over the decades for DC switching. There are good one and seriously crappy ones and ironically, some of the crappies actually look really good but poor quality materials ruin them.

Over the years I have become pretty dedicated to Blue Sea Switches which are severely tested & abused in every way prior to being made available for sale. Sure they cost more than cheapo's but it' is piece of mind which is priceless.

Bottom Line : IT IS YOUR SAFETY & PROTECTION which includes any Family & Friends which may be risked if you put together something cheap or half-baked. Some people do not want smoke alarms in their homes, others refuse to maintain & change their batteries and then there are others who dutifully maintain, update smoke detectors & their batteries.

BTW: Bashing others for their opinion is UNACCEPTABLE... anyone wanting to do that can feel free to go elsewhere. No one will miss the inputs.

• #15

What is the purpose of these switches for you guys? Just curious.

Big Red button for when things go wrong.
I would put the switch just after the main battery fuse on the positive leg in places that exceed the capacity of a COTS=common off the shelf breaker.
The bussman breakers I have looked at only go to 200 amps.
Say I make a change to the system and notice that something has gone horribly wrong and my OCP doesn't trip for some reason.
Its my hope that I can open the switch under high current load.
I know thats not guaranteed, but that is the intent.

The other reason is isolation for maintainance.

• #17

When something goes wrong.. but are you going to be present? Usually solar systems run 24/7. Are you monitoring your system all day?

Yes its for me to remedy something I screwed up.
If the switch doesn't work an axe and a fire extinguisher are the next steps.

• #19

I just use the appropriate circuit breaker as well.
Gladly so because I have many times found out that they work when I inadvertently criss a wire. Usually breakers are about 20 bucks

Can you or @Will Prowse give examples of DC Breakers for a 48V nominal battery banks? 150A to 200A rating.

I'm also at a cross-road:

I started with an ANL fuse 200A + fuse holder:

It worked ok, but above 100A continuous, it got too hot for my liking.

So, I "upgraded" to this 200A Circuit Breaker Car Boat Auto Waterproof:

Don't know if it's defective, or it wasn't made to handle the ~52V of the battery, or it wasn't made to withstand more than 50A continuous but, the fact is that it is breaking my DC connection 2 or 3 times a day.

So, what now?
1) Blue Sea 9100E battery switch + ANL 200A fuse, or
Question: the 9100E switch is spec'ed at a maximum 32VDC??

But people are using them on 48V nominal (~ up to 54V in reality) banks, right?

2) DC Breaker. What make / model? I can only find super expensive ones.

Thanks!

• #20

Is this a good option?

It's "only" 125A. I would prefer something closer to 200A.

diehlcatere1980.blogspot.com

Source: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battery-disconnect-switch-recommendations.6906/

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